Back in May, we shared our tutorial + full plans for our DIY sand table or sensory table for the backyard. It’s finally time to share Part 2 of the tutorial – adding a weather-resistant top.
Catch up on Part 1 of our DIY Sand Table Tutorial (the base) here.
(I know, I know. The original plan was to post the top the following weekend, but then quarantine life + work got the better of me and while we finished the top, we never wrote it up!)
Ignore the half-painted sand table, too. Our original paint sprayer gave out on us part-way through and we had to purchase another.
The top for our DIY sand table was incredibly simple to make. We pieced together 5/8 x 8″ deck boards using wood glue and pocket holes, and then added a lip to keep the table top in place when it was set over the sand table. The deck boards make this extra-durable against the elements – but just to be safe, we also painted it with an outdoor paint to seal the wood.
Working with pressure treated lumber like deck boards can be a little tricky because they’re incredibly “wet” from the store. Make sure to set them outside in the sun for a few days, or up to 2 weeks, to dry out before using.
PURCHASE LIST
- One 2×2 x 8′ board
- Two additional 5/4×8 x 8′ boards
- Screws (see below under recommended tools for what you’d need if you want to use pocket holes)
- Optional, but recommended: Spar varnish to seal against the elements (whether staining or leaving unstained), deck stain or an outdoor paint.
REQUIRED TOOLS
- Saw. We used a compound miter saw, however this could be cut by hand if needed.
- Power drill. We purchased this Ryobi cordless tool combo set a few years back and get so much use from it!
- Optional, but highly recommended: Kreg pocket hole jig system, clamp, and pocket hole screws. You’ll end up with a much cleaner looking table and save a ton of time and headache. Bonus: One “kit”, while about $70, will last you years of projects! The system comes with complete instructions for how to adjust to different size boards which makes this whole project so simple (even for a pocket hole novice like me!)
SHOP OUR RECOMMENDED TOOLS
WOOD CUT LIST
If you’ve built your DIY sand table to the bin we recommended in our plans, the cuts are easy. If you’ve picked a different bin, cut the 5/8 x 8″ boards a 6 inches longer than the long side of your sand table, and ensure you have enough width to cover a few inches over each horizontal side. The most important thing is that you not have too much overhang. Kids will lean on the top and you don’t want it to flip!
- (4) 44″ cuts from the 5/4×6” for the table top
- (2) 28″ cuts from the 2×2” for the long underside supports
- (2) 20″ cuts from the 2×2” for the short underside supports
DIRECTIONS
- Attach the 4 44” table top boards together using pocket screws. We used 4 pocket screws for each joint. Be gentle with the table top until the 2 short underside support boards on screwed into place (Step 3) as the table top will be fragile with just the pocket screws holding it together.
- On what will be the underside of the table top, mark with a pencil where the outer edges of your bin holder will be when the table top is in place. Ensure that your markings center the bin holder under the table top.
- Carefully, turn the table top upside down on a sturdy work surface. Install one of the 20” underside supports on each of the short ends of the table top with 2” exterior wood screws. Make sure that your support board is placed ⅛ inch outside of your bid holder mark and centered on the short side of the table top. The extra ⅛ inch allowance will make it much easier to set the table top on the bin holder. If you’re using a different sized bin, just make sure these support boards are long enough to span all of the boards in your table top, as these support boards add a lot of “support” to the table top.
- Next install the long side support boards following the same process as above. Again, make sure to give yourself an extra ⅛ inch outside your bid holder makings. The length of these boards is not as critical as they don’t really support the table top. They are meant to keep the table top from being pushed off to the side when set atop the bin holder.
- Flip the top over and ensure it fits snugly over the table. If you’re going to stain, paint, or seal, you should do that next and allow sufficient time for it to dry before use. Sand will stick to anything that’s not completely dry and you’ll never get it up.
Note: Even though we have this top for ours, we still put the plastic lid over the plastic bin because water will seep through the tabletop.
PIN THIS
